Cinque Terre, Italy: How to immerse yourself in culture, not crowds
Apr 15, 2019 11:19AM ● By Melanie Wiseman
Social media influence, decades of open borders, budget travel options and the middle-class explosion in Asia have opened the world to everyone. In Florence, Rome and Venice, some cities are nearing their breaking point.
Despite the crowds, my travel companions—my husband Dan and two of our friends—were able to find an oasis among the chaos.
Cinque Terre, a region on Italy’s rugged northwest Mediterranean coast, dates back to the 11th century. The area remained pristine but impoverished into the 1970s until travel experts like Rick Steves began writing and boasting about its remote beauty. Likewise, we wanted to experience its uniqueness and discovered a way to do so without being enveloped by the masses.
Swimming in solace
From south to north, the five villages, Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso are all reachable by a 19th-century railway line cut through a series of coastal tunnels. Cars were banned over a decade ago. All this and the surrounding hillside are part of the Cinque Terre National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.One of the best decisions we made was to stay in Corniglia for the last four nights of our Italian adventure. Located on high, precarious cliffs, Corniglia has no pier access, requiring boats full of day tourists to deposit the shopping-starved travelers at the other four towns. Of course, we were among other brave souls who hopped off the train and climbed the 400 steps up to Corneglia or hiked the Cinque Terre Trail between the five villages, but their impact was minimal. Tourists flocked to the beaches of the other four towns while we enjoyed cool Mediterranean swims in a hidden rocky cove.
Riverside sights and authentic treats
The hiking trail, known as Sentiero Azzurro (“Azure Trail”), is extremely narrow and rugged, and may have closures due to rockslides, forcing hikers to steeper and longer routes than the waterfront path. With our home base in the center of town, we hiked two consecutive days in opposite directions to explore the other four villages.Cinque Terre’s historical draw is the complicated system of fields and gardens steeply terraced and carved out of the mountainside cliffs. Cog trains carry workers up and down the precarious slopes to cultivate olives and grapes. The scope and grandeur of muretti (low stone walls) are considered works of art.
In addition to its famous wines, Cinque Terre has grappa, a brandy made with the pomace left from winemaking, and limoncello, a sweet lemon-flavored liqueur. Cinque Terre is also known for its pesto and focaccia, and Corniglia specifically for its gelato made from local honey. Seafood is also plentiful in these seaside villages.