When I first heard of Greenville, South Carolina, I had to consult a map to pinpoint its location. Little did I know that it had earned rave reviews from esteemed sources like The New York Times, Conde Nast Traveler and Travel + Leisure.

My agreement with those accolades came swiftly upon my arrival. My initial impression was of a place warmly inviting yet strikingly picturesque, being nestled in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains. With a population of about 70,000, granting it small city status, Greenville exudes the Southern charm of a much smaller town combined with a surprisingly cool cosmopolitan vibe.

It’s no wonder The New York Times placed Greenville 14th on its 2023 list of “52 Places to Go,” Condé Nast Traveler named it the “#1 Friendliest City in the U.S.” and Travel + Leisure recognized it as one of the “Best Food Cities in the U.S.” My task was to explore and verify the truth of these tributes, and verify them I did. 

MAIN STREET MAGIC

I found myself enveloped in a setting that could easily be mistaken for a movie setting. 

In the city’s heart, the center of the action and highlight for many visitors is Greenville’s Main Street. This bustling artery features broad, tree-lined sidewalks that meander past restaurants and bars, art galleries and boutiques, creating a pedestrian-friendly environment. 

Notable among the eclectic lineup of shops are Cornerstone Minerals, which offers an intriguing selection of crystals, minerals and animal skulls and skeletons; the Savannah Bee Company, renowned for its complimentary mead tastings; and the local outpost of Mast General Store. Founded in 1883, this storied retailer sells everything from cradles to caskets, including traditional merchandise like stone-ground cornmeal and grits, locally made “old timey” soaps and Amish-made rocking chairs.

As I strolled through town, I kept an eye out for the many sculptures, murals and other public art pieces that transform Greenville’s streets into an open-air gallery. I encountered references to more than 160 pieces, ranging from statues and fountains to plaques and more.

Perhaps the most renowned is a 40-foot-tall, two-ton kinetic metal sculpture that sways with the wind and supposedly represents the sun. At the opposite end of the size spectrum are nine tiny, whimsical bronze statues of mice scattered along Main Street, inspired by the children’s book “Goodnight Moon.”

Just a short distance away at Heritage Green, an arts and cultural campus, lies a world-class collection of artistic works and history museums. The Greenville County Museum of Art hosts the world’s largest public collection of Andrew Wyeth’s watercolors, alongside an impressive array of paintings and prints by Jasper Johns. Its Southern Collection provides an overview of American art from Colonial times to the present.

Sharing the Heritage Green site are the Sigal Music Museum, a children’s museum, and my personal favorite, the Upcountry History Museum. This museum brings to life South Carolina’s “upcountry”—the state’s northwestern region, including Greenville—through videos, dioramas and exhibits. It chronicles the nation’s history starting from the American Revolution and shares stories of diverse groups such as Native Americans, pioneer settlers and formerly enslaved individuals.

HISTORY & CULTURE

These touches of culture add a pleasant surprise in a community the size of Greenville. While its museums, galleries, theaters and symphony orchestra can rival those of much larger cities, Greenville still maintains the charm and attractions typical of small-town America.

Other chapters of Greenville’s past are told in several historic neighborhoods. The Colonel Elias Earle Historic District features homes dating back to the early 1800s. The West End District, which began to develop in the 1830s, saw rapid expansion after Furman University was established there in 1852. The first residence in the Hampton-Pinckney neighborhood was constructed prior to the Civil War.

The city’s early industrial era is reflected in the old brick warehouses that remain from when Greenville was a thriving textile-making and manufacturing hub. The Reedy River, which powered these industries, is now a scenic spot where I enjoyed watching ducks and geese swim and squawk while walking along the 20-mile-long Swamp Rabbit Trail, which runs alongside the narrow canal.

The river flows beneath Liberty Bridge, a 355-foot-long curved span uniquely suspended by a single cable—the only bridge of its kind in the U.S. Here, the Reedy River Falls cascades 28 feet over rocky terrain at the site where Greenville’s first European settler established a trading post in 1768 and later constructed grist and sawmills.

TOP CITY FOR FOODIES

Greenville’s culinary scene has also drawn accolades, earning it recognition from People magazine as one of the “Top New Foodie Cities in America.” In addition to down-home Southern cooking, the city boasts hundreds of restaurants offering dishes from across the country and around the globe.

This eclectic mix of culinary offerings enhances Greenville’s unique charm as a city that blends small-town friendliness with the sophistication of a much larger urban center.

With so much to see and do in Greenville, visitors with limited time might wish to take advantage of the many tours available to suit any interest—be it history, mystery, culinary explorations or cocktails. Whether on foot, by bike or on a Segway, there’s likely to be something that fits your fancy.

IF YOU GO

Reflecting on Greenville’s historical charm, the city introduced its first electric trolleys in 1901, with rides originally costing a nickel. Today, these vintage trams operate for free, running on five different routes downtown. They are wheelchair accessible and equipped with bicycle racks, making them a convenient and enjoyable way to explore the city.

Grenville Art in Public Places
Greenvillesc.gov/1114/Arts-in-Public-Places

Greenville County Museum of Art
GCMA.org | 864-271-7570

Sigal Music Museum
SigalMusicMuseum.org | 864-520-8807

The Upcountry History Museum
UpcountryHistory.org | 864-467-3100

Colonel Elias Earle Historic District
Greenvillesc.gov/526/Colonel-Elias-Earle-Historic-District

For more information, go to Visit GreenvilleSC.com or call
864-233-046