Two decades ago, I visited the British Virgin Islands (BVI), where I explored pristine beaches, natural landmarks and historic sites, and marveled at the spectacular scenery. On a recent return trip, I relived those experiences and discovered even more reasons why the islands are a welcoming destination for anyone seeking sun, surf and a taste of Caribbean culture.

Beaches are a top draw, but a drive on the many winding mountain roads offers stunning views of the islands.

What’s missing in the BVI? High-rise hotels, gambling, chain restaurants and the over-commercialized feel of many other Caribbean destinations. What you’ll find instead are steep, winding mountain roads with stunning views. With many more potholes than pavement, I recommend using taxis or tour buses rather than renting a car. 

Beaches are a top draw and the islands offer something for every preference. Cane Garden Bay pairs soft sand with ample water activities, while Smuggler’s Cove—fringed by cacti and palms—offers good snorkeling farther offshore.

In Road Town, the J.R. O’Neal Botanic Gardens showcase tropical plants representing the different habitats of the BVI.

White sand beaches of Anegada Island.

 One hidden gem worth seeking out is Jenesis Studio. Inside, you’ll find vivid paintings of BVI life. Behind the building is a tropical herb garden with signs identifying traditional medicinal uses.

I also ventured to three other inhabited islands among the 60 that make up the BVI. 

Anegada, formed from coral and limestone, contrasts with its volcanic neighbors and boasts dazzling white sand beaches, colorful reefs and shipwrecks ideal for snorkeling and diving.

The granite boulders of Virgin Gorda.

 Virgin Gorda is home to “the Baths,” a collection of granite boulders forming scenic grottoes along the beach, while also preserving remnants of African, Spanish and Indigenous settlements.

Jost Van Dyke, said to be named for a Dutch privateer, makes up in attractions what it lacks in size (about 3.5 square miles). The island is dotted with ruins of early sugar mills and historic footpaths. It’s also home to the world-famous Soggy Dollar Bar, said to be the birthplace of the Painkiller cocktail. Before the road was built, patrons swam ashore and paid their tab with soggy bills pulled from their pockets.

Sailboats at anchor in the bay.

In addition to the usual Caribbean pastimes—sunning and swimming, snorkeling and diving—the BVI is a paradise for boaters. Consistent trade winds, calm turquoise waters and a cluster of easily navigable islands have earned it a reputation as the sailing capital of the Caribbean. Many visitors rent a sailboat or catamaran to explore hidden coves, secluded beaches and sights only reachable by sea.

Even if you’re not a sailor, I highly recommend spending time on land. Each island has its own scenic beauty, fun activities and intriguing chapters of history to relate.

I stayed at the Wyndham Tortola BVI Lambert Beach Resort, which fronts a beautiful stretch of sand and features an inviting pool lined with cabanas, lush gardens and gourmet dining.

A favorite culinary find was the Coconut Lounge in Road Town, which overlooks the harbor. I especially enjoyed the coconut-crusted shrimp and seafood pasta.