In the morning, my wife Fyllis and I followed a path right in town that skirts waterfalls tumbling through the bottom of a deep gorge. Later we wandered through a lush botanical garden, a pocket of natural beauty set against the backdrop of an already scenic place.

Lunch consisted of farm-fresh produce paired with cider for which the area is famous, while dinner offered a similar field-to-table feast complemented by local wine.

This was our introduction to Ithaca, New York—a taste of what the small city is known for, though it barely scratched the surface. With a population of about 32,000, Ithaca is often linked with Cornell University, Ithaca College and nearby Tompkins Cortland Community College. These institutions enrich the community, but they don’t define all that it offers visitors.

GORGES, WATERFALLS AND FARMLAND 

Ithaca’s slogan, “Ithaca is Gorges,” captures both the literal and figurative. Steep ravines cut through rock walls, home to waterfalls that cascade dramatically into narrow gorges. Beyond the cliffs are rolling farm fields, vineyard-dotted hillsides and Cayuga Lake—the longest of the Finger Lakes, stretching more than 38 miles, carved by glaciers during the Ice Age.

Boats at dock in Cayuga Lake.

Cayuga Lake takes its name from the indigenous Cayuga people, who were here long before Europeans arrived and who still live in the region today. In the early 1800s, settlers built homes and mills powered by waterfalls. At one point, dozens of factories turned out flour, paper, farm equipment and other goods.

That history is told at The History Center, a modern museum with interactive exhibits and Native American collections. But Ithaca’s greatest draw remains outdoors.

The area boasts more than 150 waterfalls. Within the city limits alone you’ll find Ithaca Falls, while nearby Buttermilk Falls tumbles down a frothy staircase of rapids. Just outside town, Taughannock Falls plunges 215 feet—33 feet taller than Niagara—making it the highest single-drop waterfall east of the Rockies.

ARTS, TRAILS & DISCOVERY

Chasing waterfalls is just the beginning. An Art Trail connects the studios of dozens of local artists, while a Murals Map points the way to wall paintings and installations across town. Trails for hiking and biking lace the surrounding woods.

The Discovery Trail links together the Cornell Botanic Gardens, Cayuga Nature Center, Cornell Johnson Museum of Art and a 226-acre bird sanctuary where more than 230 species have been recorded. Anglers cast their lines into stream waters for trout and landlocked salmon, others explore Cayuga lake by tour boat and still others drift above it all in hot air balloons.

Knitter and weaver at the Trumansburg Farmers Market.

A short drive through countryside leads to small-town discoveries. In nearby Trumansburg, local history is etched into the streetscape. Once a mill town and agricultural hub, it has evolved into a bedroom community for Ithaca and a retreat for those who savor life in the slow lane.

The weekly farmers market reflects this slower pace. What it lacks in size it makes up for in charm: gray-haired musicians playing for a crowd, vendors selling fresh produce, a stand offering “free beef bones” with every purchase and young women spinning yarn into winter wear.

The area’s food culture is just as compelling as its scenery. The Ithaca Farmers Market hosts about 150 vendors, while local wineries, breweries and cideries pair their beverages with nearby farm fare. The highly acclaimed Moosewood Restaurant shows how inventive vegetarian cuisine can be.

ACCOMMODATIONS 

The Hotel Ithaca is a favorite of Cornell alumni and visitors. Its walls are covered with waterfall photographs, reminding guests of the natural wonders that surround the city. Just steps away is Ithaca Commons, a wide pedestrian mall lined with restaurants, cafés, shops, galleries and public art.

For more information, visit Cityofithaca.org or DowntownIthaca.com

WHEN YOU GO

The Hotel Ithaca

607-272-1000 | TheHotelithaca.com

The History Center in Tompkins County
607-273-8284 | TheHistoryCenter.net

Cornell Botanic Gardens
607-255-2400 | CornellBotanicGardens.org

Downtown Ithaca Alliance / Visitor Center
607-277-8679 | DowntownIthaca.com

Johnson Museum of Art (Cornell University)
607-255-6464 | Museum.Cornell.edu

Cayuga Nature Center
607-273-6260 | CayugaNatureCenter.org

Cornell Lab of Ornithology / Sapsucker Woods
800-843-2473 | Birds.Cornell.edu

Buttermilk Falls State Park
607-273-5761 | Parks.NY.gov/parks/buttermilkfalls

Taughannock Falls State Park
607-539-4078 | Parks.NY.gov/parks/taughannockfalls

Moosewood Restaurant

607-273-9610 | MoosewoodCooks.com

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